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Heritage India, 2400 Wisconsin Ave. NW; 202/333-3120
If you're having a day from hell, get your coat on right now and head to Glover Park to Heritage India, in the spot where Germaine's used to be. When you get there, order the begumi khazana ($19.95). Literally translated as "the queen's meal," it's a vegetarian feast fit for a queen, king or anyone else who wears jeweled headgear.

The ritual starts off with a crispy onion fried in chickpea batter, accompanied by a bed of tamarind potatoes, topped with a dollop of yogurt sauce. Then the entree arrives on a gorgeous silver platter, flanked by four small, silver dishes chock-full of an assortment of dal, curry and raita (the combination is cooked to order and changes daily) to mix with the center mound of basmati pilau.

It probably doesn't hurt that chef Sudhir Seth used to run the kitchen at the renowned Bombay Club and that owner Sanjeev Tuli has two other Indian restaurants (in Prague and Frankfurt). In addition to the begumi khazana, there are lots of other dishes to try, including tandoori specialties such as jhinga (prawns) and chicken tikka, lamb vindaloo, and various curries and breads.

So don't cry about Germaine's. Instead, do a dance for its replacement, which is off to a regal start.
– Kim O'Donnel

MCCXXIII, 1223 Connecticut Ave. NW; 202/822-1800
It would be easy to dismiss MCCXXIII as just another House of Pretension, with its Roman numeral name and its oh-so-'80s velvet rope outside. Part of the trumpeted south-of-Dupont renaissance, MCCXXIII ("1223" to you and me) has been open for a couple of months now; and its downstairs bar and upstairs lounge areas are filled with a diverse, attractive group, clearly there to see and be seen.

By Craig Cola/washingtonpost.com

If you've come to eat, you're in for an extremely pleasant surprise. The copious serving of shredded endive, apple and walnut salad ($8) was fresh and sprightly, bathed in a sweet pomegranate dressing. Another appetizer, foie gras with pineapple upside down cake ($14), sounded too weird to be true. My companion liked it more than I did, but foie gras is sort of like caviar – you're just a bit more glad to be alive when you have some of that rich stuff in your mouth.

Of the entrees we sampled, the salmon ($18) wasn't anything memorable. But the grilled rack of lamb ($22) – actually a plateful of delicate lamb chops – was superb. And, wonder of wonders, it came exactly as ordered – rare, with a nice tasty charring on the outside. It was delicious, as was the accompanying white sweet potato puree.

We would have left MCCXXIII sated and happy if only we hadn't decided to visit the bathroom on the way out. The unwitting bathroom attendant gestured toward the tip cup and announced: "Tips required." We couldn't believe our ears. Embarrassed, she stuttered: "I mean, tips requested. . . . My manager told me to say that." Required or requested, neither one made for a satisfying end to an otherwise good meal.
– Anne Glusker

By Craig Cola/washingtonpost.com

Like the food of the United States, the food of South Africa is a melange of influences: Potjie is a traditional Dutch dish brought to South Africa in the 17th century and named for the three-legged cast-iron pot in which it's cooked. The voortrekkers threw in whatever ingredients were available and came up with a slow-simmered stew that is never stirred. Because it takes three hours to prepare, says van Staden, it's the kind of dish that would be shared at home in South Africa rather than at a restaurant.

Van Staden is offering beef, chicken or vegetarian potjie. Two of us shared the very tender chicken with an explosive combination of lemon confit, olives, sweet potato, tomatoes and cilantro. The menu includes a salad of mixed greens and figs, a basket of vetkoek (fried bread resembling unsweetened beignets) and for a dessert, melk tart – a mild milk custard in a pastry crust dusted with sugar. The dinner, which is $29.50, includes a glass of Pinotage, a red wine unique to South Africa.

If you're hankering for a new flavor experience, don't miss out on this. It's comfort food with a twist – and a welcome one. Keep in mind that reservations are required.
– Kim O'Donnel

Tono Sushi, 2605 Connecticut Ave. NW; 202/332-7300.
Add sushi to the multi-culti melange on that busy stretch near the Woodley Park Metro stop. And add Tono Sushi to your list of regular haunts.

By Reginald A. Pearman Jr./washingtonpost.com

No matter the reason, Tono Sushi is comfortable and easy – so go in your jeans and go often. The menu, which features lots of other Japanese staples such as noodle soups, tempura and teriyaki, stays below $19, but most entrees max at $14. Try one of the combo specials, which is a great deal ($13.95-$18.95) and includes miso soup and various extras, from tempura to red bean ice cream, depending on your hunger level. Appetizers include grilled squid and a yummy rare tuna salad served over tangily dressed cucumbers.

In addition to Japanese beer (Sapporo, Kirin and Asahi Dry), the menu offers five different brands of premium sake, which is served in stone pottery cups. And if you are a sushi fan, this is definitely your place: The selection is varied and on-the-money fresh.
– Kim O'Donnel

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